Canada 2011
 
 

Day 11

August 4

 
  
  
 I need to check my work e-mail and the only wifi connection is up near the office. So I make my way, netbook in hand, to do the deed.  
  
  Dave and Kelly are there also, so we talk about what is on the 'planner' for today. They are going to Fort Louisbourg, a reconstructed 18th century French fort. I add that I would like to visit the Alexander Graham Bell Museum also if we have time. With the 'agenda' set, I head back to the room to see if Alain is out and about. It sounds good to him, since we both would like to do a short day before heading out tomorrow for home.  
  
  We grab our stuff and head back up to where Dave and the lovely Miss Kelly are waiting.  
  
 It's a short ride to Tim Horton's for breakfast, as they are about the only option around. 
  
 

When I go to order my 'usual', the server tells me that they are out of biscuits. Since Dave doesn't like biscuits, I blame it all on him. I have to settle for an English muffin which works okay. Next to our table is the local 'coffee club' which meets regularly here. I tell them,

"Don't mind us - we're pretty harmless" and we all laugh.

 
  
 

Once we finish our digestibles, we wander outside. Julien, whose nickname is Rossi, flies by and sees our bikes. He and some others are camping so he pulls in. He dashes inside Timmy's to get a bite to eat. When he comes out, he's got a biscuit. I just look at Dave and say -

"See, I told you it was your fault cause you don't like biscuits. As soon as you leave, the biscuits show back up."

 
  
 Soon we are on the road headed to Fort Louisbourg.  
  
 It's a nice ride, and it takes us across a major high bridge. 
  
 I've taken up the position of tailgunner, as this will be a 'flower sniffing' day for me. There's nothing wrong with 'flower sniffing', but it is something that I do not get to do very often. 
  
 I notice off to my right another little lighthouse, but I'm not gonna be headed down that way to get a closer picture. 
  
 There is a actual town call Louisbourg, then there is the historical site further out. The name strikes me as sort of funny, since I grew up in a town call 'Lewisburg' - spelled differently but pronounced the same. 
  
 Soon we arrive at the visitor' center where we will be taking a bus to the actual reconstruction. 
  
 The first stop is a fisherman's hut like the ones that would have existed outside of the fort's proper boundaries. Being in the roofing business, I note that they had 'green roofs' way back in the 18th century - a few days before Al Gore. 
  
 Inside are actors, clothed in period clothes, explaining what life was like back then. 
  
 And outside, I see something I am very familiar with - the old wood pile. I burned wood for 16 years as my only source of heat so perhaps I am too familiar with the wood pile and what is involved its creation. 
  
 In the distance, we can see the fort which was reconstructed on the original site. 
  
 And as with all proper forts, there is a guard checking us out before we can enter. 
  
 It's a beautiful reconstruction, including the gate with a drawbridge. 
  
 Although only one quarter of the fort has been reconstructed, it is still an amazing site to behold. It is the largest historical reconstruction in North America. 
  
 Livestock is housed in various parts that would have been used by the original settlers. 
  
 Dave and Kelly go into explore the 'powder house' where black powder and cannon balls would have been housed. 
  
 

Next stop is the kings bakery where you can buy one of three types of bread - 'soldier's bread' made of barley and rye, 'middle class bread' made with whole wheat and plain flour, and 'wealthy bread' made from the finest flour. I pick the 'middle class bread', more befitting my station in life, and it is really good right out of the oven.

 
  
 

It's a really neat place just to wander around and observe the various 'animators' plying their trade.

 
  
 The king's bastion barracks are the most impressive building that has been reconstructed. It has an elegant, slender bell tower with a clock that only has the hour hand. 
  
 Inside is the military chapel, the only place of worship in the area. The priests were never able to build a proper church, so this place served the spiritual needs of the people. 
  
 Fortunately, we will also get to see the firing of the cannons later on. 
  
 Before long, there comes a guard detail across the verandah. 
  
  After they clear the area, I can go up closer to the cannon.  
  
 The stone work is very impressive and it makes you wonder just how the British were able to overrun the fort - twice. 
  
 The cannon is prepped and ready to fire at the proper time. 
  
 I can only imagine what the French soldiers must have thought when they looked out to see the British warships sailing into their view. 
  
 Soon, the lone watchman is joined ... 
  
 by the rest of his comrades, including a fife and drum detachment. 
  
 The riflemen fire their weapons in preparation for the firing of the cannon. 
  
 Soon the time has come, and the cannon is fired with a mighty roar. 
  
 Meanwhile, another guard in not quite period costume offers a hearty salute, 
  
  A lot of the period furnishings have been placed in the various living areas in the fort.  
  
 Nearby is the local jail house where I fail to see any color televisions or pork chops on display. I have reason to believe that no one was in a big hurry to have their ankles put into these irons. 
  
 In one room, I notice a nice cane bottom chair. It reminds me of the ones that my grandfather and great uncle used to make in their factory in Crossville. 
  
 

When we wander down to the barrel making shop, Dave and I neither one can think of what you call a barrel maker. We know it is not a word that has anything to do with or sounds like barrel. Dave finally checks it out on his cell phone,. The answer -

Cooper - Someone who makes wooden staved vessels of a conical form, of greater length than breadth, bound together with hoops and possessing flat ends or heads.

 
  
 The tools of the trade are unlike anything else that I have seen. 
  
 

Soon we decide that we will partake of lunch in one of the three 'period' cafes in the fortress area. I eye the fish soup, but then see 'Scrumptious Meat Pie' on the menu. That sounds like the ticket, so that is what I order along with some vegetable soup. If there is anything that I don't care to eat, it is cooked carrots and yams. The veggie soup was nothing more than carrot soup, and the meat pie was turkey with a big helping of more cooked carrots and yams. When it arrives, I tell the group -

"Well, if this is what they ate, I don't think I would have made a very good 18th century Frenchman!"

 
  
 But I did finish the meat, though the rest of it I left for the ghosts of Frenchmen past. 
  
 Back outside again, we happen upon some animators showing a typical school gathering of young people. 
  
 We walk along the water front, admiring the fine buildings that housed the more wealthy folks. 
  
 Inside, I see a fancy harpsichord, and just wonder how such a delicate instrument would have made it across the ocean in the hold of a rocking and rolling sailing vessel. 
  
 Various pieces furniture have been place through the buildings to give you an idea of how business was conducted in those days. 
  
 In one room rests one of the six original 'wall guns' that protected Fort Louisbourg. They were designed for long range shooting and sometimes were called 'buccaneers guns'. 
  
 In another room are various intricate models of the sailing ships of the period. Judging by all of the cannon ports, this would have been a serious man of war. 
  
 Outside is a reconstruction of the Luxembourg Cross.  
  
 And nearby is plump old duck, that seems to be pretty happy with his accommodations. 
  
 We pass by one of the archaeological digs in the fort that they decided to leave 'as is'. When you see how little they had to work with, it makes the reconstruction even more fascinating. 
  
 And we also get to meet one of the local sheep up close. He was not happy with his close and recent hair cut - or at least that's what I understood him to say. 
  
 But soon it's time to head back to the house as we hope to make it to the Alexander Graham Bell Museum before it closes. 
  
 We cover the ground pretty quickly ... 
  
 as I take a middle position on the way back.  
  
 The clouds seems to be closing in, but fortunately they are holding off from dumping moisture on our heads.  
  
 As we get neared to Baddeck, the skies brighten a little bit and for that I am thankful. 
  
 I spy a sail boat making good time across the water. 
  
 The Graham Museum is just as you come into Baddeck.  
  
  Unknown to me, Alexander and his family spent their summers here in Baddeck and donated a lot of their artifacts to the museum.  
  
 Once we enter into the museum proper, we are introduced to the amazing world of Alexander Graham Bell. I, like many others, only connect him to the development of the telephone.  
  
  But as we find out as we tour the museum, he was the inventor of all sort of technology. One of his most interesting projects was the giant hydroplane boat that he was developing for the US military.  
  
 It was a massive creation designed to provide a high speed method of crossing the water. 
  
 The reconstruction is impressive to say the least, as the project was abandoned at the close of the war and left to rot on the lake shore. 
  
 But fortunately, they were later able to rescue some of the original parts and have them on display in the museum.  
  
 When I see this exhibit, I am completely amazed. It seems that Mr. Bell had developed a 'wireless' phone that operated via light waves - tested on April 1, 1880!  
  
  He came up with a device for distilling salt water for sailors stranded on the ocean.  
  
  While he was at it, he also made many improvements to Edison's Gramophone. 
  
  But the museum is going to close shortly, so we leave this place of wonders and enjoy the gorgeous view on our way out.  
  
 

It's time to feed the beast and the supper decision is easy for me.

"I'd like to go back to the Bell Buoy and get some more of that chowder since it's right on the way back to the motel."

There appears to be no major disagreements on the matter, so we just pull into the parking area and get a nice corner table.

 
  
 We end up with the same server, the lady from Switzerland, and she is very happy that we came back. She makes sure that the service is quick and can't do enough to make us happy. Several of us go for the seafood chowder, and I don't reckon anybody is disappointed. And what better way to end a great time together than enjoying a killer brownie with ice cream. 
  
 And needless to say, it is enjoyed to the last bite. I want to lick the plate but figure that is probably a little too crude for the present company. 
  
 

When I waddle outside, I see another delightful puppy dog. Her name is Mocha and I have to have a picture and a pet. I tell her -

"Miss Mocha, you will be world famous now just as soon as I get back and post your picture on my website."

She mentions something about royalties, but I tell her she is just out of luck on that one.

 
  
 Since I'll be up and out early tomorrow headed for Tennessee, I make my good-byes now. I thank Dave and Kelly for hosting the event and giving me a good reason to visit this part of the country. 
  
 With that done, we all head back to the motel. Alain and I chat for a while about the future and rides we would like to do together. He's been a real friend and I will certainly miss his good company and smiling face. But I've got 2,100 miles to cover the next few days so I hit the bunk and drift off quickly.