Uncle Phil - Ireland 2010 Day 06

Ireland 2010

Day 06

June 15

Since tomorrow I will be making a mad dash across Ireland to catch a ferry to Scotland, I go down early to get some things sorted out on the VFR1200. This is the first time that I have used a tank bag, and we didn't have time to figure out a really good attachment method at AboutTown. Since I'm going to ride the Dingle Peninsula today and have extra time, I get after it with the help of my technical assistant, Miss Gypsi. She is a pooch of many talents in addition to being a formidable attacker of biscuits.

The battery on my phone is trying to die, so I hook it into the bike power and leave Sharyn a message. I know she's probably out being tended to by the doctors, but she is never far from my heart and I let her know it in. With the tank bag sorted, which contains my MP3 player and communications gear, I bid Miss Gypsi a fond adieu and I'm on the road again.

I head back out on the Ring of Kerry toward Killarney and the Killarney National Park. Since I'm out early, I should miss all of the tour buses with any good fortune at all.

I get a nice view of the Lady's View at Molls Gap as I cross over on my journey.

I'm still a bit mystified by the story behind these ruins, but I guess I'll have to leave that for another day and another trip.

It's amazing the different perspective you get when you view the same scene at sunset versus sunrise. But I need to get through Killarney before it wakes up so I move on.

It's interesting to see these folks waiting for the tourists to get there. I can only imagine the tales they are telling about people that they have been conveying in the park.

As I turn onto R561, I see the sign that I have been headed for in the last hour.

And just beyond is a reminder for those colonials and Europeans who might be tempted to drive on the right side of the road instead of the 'proper' side of the road!

As I make my way along the coast line, I am already liking the Dingle Peninsula a lot better than the Ring of Kerry. Dingle Bay is gorgeous with it's inlets backed by hills of blue.

And very now and then there's even a beach for a feller to enjoy if he so be of that mind.

The blues of the water and the hills make a beautiful contrast to the pure white of the VFR1200. This is a perfect 'calendar' shot as I like to call them. I ride today with Sharyn's helmet strapped on the back seat as a reminder of how sweet she is. This is a view that I wish with all of my heart that she could be enjoying with me.

Just past the village of Dingle which is just past the village of Inch, I turn on R559 and Slea Head Drive.

I've got the road all to myself this morning and I am really enjoying it. The cows are enjoying the scenery themselves so much that they don't even look my way.

Mr. ZUMO decides it would be better if I launch off on another pig path so I humor one more time. He just has a thing for single lane, narrow roads that I have yet to learn to appreciate.

Perhaps he is looking for his cousins standing here in the field since I would assume that they have the same temperament as he does. But then, I may be erring in my judgment on their part since I have not been formally introduced to them and surely they can't be as trifling as Mr. ZUMO.

Just past the village of Ventry, there is a prehistoric site call Dunbeg Fort, which sits right on the bay.

It would be interesting to take the walk and spend time at the visitor's center, but I'm just not in the mood to be around people yet. So I take a look from the distance, and move on.

The beautiful blue of the waters remind me of Crater Lake back in Oregon, that I have visited on numerous occasions.

As I wind my way along the coastline, I am reminded not to ride past what I can see since there could be another car or bus coming from the opposite direction. And last time I checked, rock walls and cliff sides don't have a lot of give in them when you hit.

The blues and greens provide a beautiful contrast as the sky and the water seem to merge in the distance.

And I remember my lesson from the Irish shepherd we encountered on the Ring of Beara when I see the paint marks on these sheep.

I am fascinated with the many islands that stand just off the coast of Ireland. I wonder who owns them and how many actually have someone living on them.

And the many cliffs that jut out into the water appear to be void of settlement. Back in the States, the real estate agents would be hawking these 'views' like a man selling precious gold.

Then Mr. ZUMO breaks me out of my thought process by once again directing down a path fraught with peril. Just what is lurking around that bend?

But soon I'm back out to the splendid coast and have about decided to ignore Mr. ZUMO so that I might retain my sanity - and not toss him over the cliff!

As I complete the loop back into Dingle, I see this lovely church building and appreciate the simplicity of the structure.

It's about time for lunch, as my stomach has been telegraphing my brain, wondering if my throat is cut. So I find the closest place that has both fuel for the bike and fuel for me. Nothing like a trip to the health food section to give a man the strength to do what needs to be done.

As it turns out, this happens to be Europe's most westerly service station and food court. The meat pie ain't bad and the banana is ripe, so it works for me just fine.

As I approach the village of Dingle, I keep my eyes open for the turnoff to the Connor Pass. It is the highest pass in Ireland and is another road that Stephen, a local ST rider, put me onto. If it is half as good as Healey Pass is on the Ring of Beara, I've got a killer good ride coming up.

I see the sign and manage to make the turn off without too much drama.

And a dandy it is! Great sweepers, great pavement, little traffic ...

and some magnificent views to enjoy ahead ...

and behind me.

I see this sign and am beginning to wonder just what sort of road I'm fixin' to do down.

Once again, I have to remind myself to make haste slowly as this is a two way on a one lane road.

But over here, they figure you just need to put on your big boy britches and deal with whatever traffic shows up.

About half way down the mountain, is the lovely Connor Pass Falls. It is a destination for many hikers in the area.

My next destination is the turn off to see Brandon Point which will take me through the small village of Ballyquin.

I have the place all to myself, as I make a long trek up a single track to get there. It is a haven for birdwatchers and hikers in the shadow of Mountain Brandon.

And it is quiet place from which to admire the view and think on the events of the pass few days as I look out over the ocean.

But I need to be heading back toward the house since tomorrow will be a long day. I take one last look at the hills, then mount up to make my way down the mountain.

But never knowing what may be lurking in the hedgerows, I just roll back on the throttle and proceed cautiously.

My next stop is to be Castlegregory, a little side trip off the main road.

I figure with a name like Castlegregory there must be a castle, right?

Well, I look and look all over the small village but like the towns in the US that have 'falls' in their name and no 'falls' anywhere near, Castlegregory has no castle to be seen.

It's just a Irish beach town and this is about as close to a 'castle' as I'm going to see!

I feel a little bit like this feller - all upside down and nowhere to go ...

But it's down one more single track courtesy of Mr. ZUMO, before I get back to the main road.

As I head back into Killarney proper, I can't help but chuckle when I see this B&B sign, since I'm from Nashville. I just wonder what the connection is but I need to keep rolling on.

And once I'm back on the Ring of Kerry, I'm back to dodging those roving land yachts designed to instill fear into the hearts of intrepid motorcyclists as they provide engaging comfort to their occupants.

And the stream is never ending, as I make my way down from Mollys Gap. They have right of weight, so they take up as much of the road surface as they want to. And it's not an argument that I'm going to win when it comes down to it.

I stop and take one more look at the lovely Irish hills before I descend into Kenmare, knowing that tomorrow will be day of making haste on the motorways.

With that in mind, I fill the VFR up so that I can get out early in the morning before anything is opened up.

When I get back to the WatersEdge, Miss Noreen is out and about.

"Just got back from the Dingle Peninsula" I tell her.

"Well, you made progress quickly again" she tells me with a smile.

"Since I'm pulling out way early in the morning, I need to settle up with you tonight."

She does the calculations in her head and comes in way cheaper than I think she ought to be. She's been more that kind and has gone out of her way to take care of Sharyn and I in the midst of our trouble. So I give her extra in appreciation which she does not want to accept. But I tell her -

"Ain't no use of arguing with stubborn hillbilly, Miss Noreen. Now just take it cause you deserve it!"

We both laugh and she does and I go upstairs to unsuit and sort things out for tomorrow. I'm on mission into town this evening as I have to procure the leprechauns that Sharyn asked for. So I get my walking shoes on and head down the forest path to the bridge into town.

On my way in, I see a neglected house and wonder what the story it would tell if only I could understand.

I'm hot in pursuit of the leprechaun that Sharyn asked me to get for her. I stop at several gift shops but just can't seem to find what I really want. I go down another street and see another store. This has just what I am looking for - small, handcrafted leprechauns. After I buy then, I strike up a conversation with the man behind the counter.

"Any good place to eat around that you would recommend?"

"Certainly, Felonies just around the corner."

I thank him and make the short stroll to the entrance. It is both a hotel and a restaurant so I make my way in and find a booth at the back.

When the server shows up, I tell him -

'The feller over at the gift shop highly recommended this place so I thought I'd give it a try."

He just grins and tells me -

"He's our boss and owns this place. "

I just laugh and say, "What would you recommend?"

"Our sea food is very good" he tells me.

So I follow his advice and order some chowder and fish. The chowder comes with some lovely dark bread and makes for a good meal in itself.

Then the main course comes and I can see I'm gonna be fatter and happier before I leave this place.

I polish off the feast in front of me, settle up and make my way back to the B&B. One of the reasons Kenmare is such a good location is that it is located near the Ring of Beara and the Ring of Kerry, close to the Dingle Peninsula, and not as eat up with tourists as Killarney. I've enjoyed staying here, except for Sharyn's accident, because it's just a nice small town.

The walk back is pleasant and I pick up a few things for breakfast in the morning. I plan on a quick bite in the room, then getting out as early as I can since I have a pretty good distance to travel.

Back in my room, I managed to get everything packed on the bike except for the tank bag and my gear. All I should have to do in the morning is eat, clean up, put the tank bag on the bike and head out for the east coast of Ireland near Dublin. There's still plenty of daylight, but if I'm going to get up way early I need to get to bed way early. Tomorrow will be one of those days that I just have to grind out the miles, so I make a paper route just in case Mr. ZUMO decides to pull one of his tricks. I don't have time to humor him if I plan on making the ferry to Scotland on time. With this sorted, I pull the curtains to cut off the daylight, and settle down for the evening.