West 2009
  
 

Day 14

September 9

  
 
 
  We're out and at it at dawn's early light with our goal to visit the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and Bryce Canyon before dark.  
 
 
  A large part of the road that runs along the south rim of the Grand Canyon had been shut for maintenance. But Andy remembers (and I don't) that there are some beautiful views as we leave the park on highway 64.  
 
 
  For the most part, we have the road and the views all to ourselves as the sun makes it's appearance.  
 
 
  But there are still shadows that blanket the depths of the canyon.  
 
 
  Standing on this side, it would not seem logical that it is over 200 miles to the other side by road.  
 
 
  But we have decided to skip Zion Canyon today, so that gives us a little more time for photo ops.  
 
 
  The reds of the canyon are slowing revealed as the sun line paints down the sides until it almost reaches the bottom.  
 
 
 

As I stand back, I think -

"And who are these two space aliens and just what are they doing?"

  
 
 
  But we've got a ways to go and a short time to get there, so we rock and roll along the deserted highways.  
 
 
  And I notice that Dave's cloud is in hot pursuit of us once again ...  
 
 
  Just as we turn north on highway 89, I remember Cameron Trading Post which has a restaurant. Our timing is good since there are just opening up and the tourist crowds have not shown up yet.  
 
 
  Once again I am amazed at how merciless Dave attacks another piece of chicken fried steak smothered in gravy.  
 
 
  He gives no quarter and none is returned as he successfully conquers another feast fit for a king. And Andy and I don't do too bad ourselves judging by the fragments that remain.  
 
 
  And for some reason Dave's riding jacket seems to have shrunk and he has a hard time zipping it up.  
 
 
  Once we're rolling again, we pass an interesting suspension bridge that still spans a canyon. Suspension bridges always catch my eye and I remember that Waco, Texas has a magnificent example still standing. At the time that it was built it was one of the longest single-span suspension bridges in the world  
 
 
  But as soon as we leave the river behind us, the arid landscape greets us.  
 
 
  We pass over the New Navaho Bridge at Marble Canyon on highway 89A. The original bridge, completed in 1929, is now a walk way that allows visitors not faint of heart to look the Colorado River over 460 feet below. This is technically a bridge across the Grand Canyon as it is in the National Park.  
 
 
  As we leave the bridges behind, the Vermilion Cliffs in their multi-hued beauty rise up to greet us from the desert floor.  
 
 
  When we make the turn off of highway 89A, Dave's cloud makes it's appearance in full force. The temperatures start to drop as we are now at over 8,000 feet in altitude.  
 
 
  A quick shot of the entrance sign, then we do business with the rangers at the entry gate. Once again, the annual park passes comes in handy and are our ticket to admission.  
 
 
  The north rim of the Grand Canyon is a different experience that the more frequently visited south rim.  
 
 
  The area is much more like an alpine meadow that the desert browns of the south. The 'civilized' area is much smaller and the traffic and visitors are fewer. It gives you a different perspective when you look out over the canyon proper.  
 
 
  And every now and then you get to see really strange creatures there wearing funny suits and speaking a language that few understand ...  
 
 
  It is hard to believe that 4 or so hours ago we were standing on the other side looking this way. But without bridges like the Navajo Bridge, the trip would be 700 miles instead of 200 miles.  
 
 
  The greens of the North Rim offer a sharp contrast to the red hues of the canyon walls - as Dave's cloud continues to hover near us.  
 
 
  If trees could talk, I imagine this old veteran of the canyon storms could tell many tales of hardship and endurance. But when you are rooted in the rock, you tend to stand whatever comes your way.  
 
 
  Looking up the canyon from our vantage point, you can see a lookout position that is not for the faint of heart nor the fearful of heights.  
 
 
  Behind us is the main lodge building, perched right on the precipice.  
 
 
  Dave and I make our way over to the viewpoint, and he braves it out to outer limits - all for the sake of another great photo.  
 
 
  Inside the lodge are many interesting art pieces, including this one of a typical canyon mule.  
 
 
  The main dining room is lovely appointed with incredible views of the canyon, but it's not on our list as stopping point today.  
 
 
 

When we head back to our bikes, there are couple of ladies parked next to us on Harleys. They are old riding friends from Rapid City, South Dakota. They both used to work at the same dealership, but now only the older lady does. I tell them -

"Well, I have to say one thing for the HD dealerships. They tend to get way more involved in doing things in the community that most Honda dealers."

As it turns out, that was the younger lady's job - coordinating community affairs. They are just wandering around, enjoying each other's company and the pleasures of the open road. I wish them well and a safe journey and we're all off to where the road will take us for the day.

  
 
 
  As we make our way back out of the park and on toward Bryce Canyon, I can help but notice another forest ravaged by fire. The barren trees stand as a sad testimony to the poor animals that were caught up in it with no where to go.  
 
 
  Just before we hit highway 89A, it's time for another "Dave's Gasoline Drill". Since we have some time during one of those, Andy and I take a little break.  
 
 
  We make our descent back to the desert floor and it appears that Dave's cloud maybe lingering at the canyon - for which we are grateful.  
 
 
  The approach to the Utah is a long, straight one punctuated by the scrubby bushes that dot the desert floor.  
 
 
  When we arrive at the Utah border, I snap my final state line sign for Frost. I have now placed my third ST1100 in all 48 states with pictures at each state line sign.  
 
 
  It's short hop before we are entering Kanab, Utah.  
 
 
  Soon we are headed back toward the mountains and the 8,000+ foot elevations of Bryce Canyon.  
 
 
  And it seems that Dave's cloud has come after us again. I guess it got bored at the North Rim and got lonesome.  
 
 
  Bryce Canyon is one of the most beautiful canyons in the national park system.  
 
 
  The hoodoos, whimsical rock formations, remind me of ancient cathedral spires carved in the rock.  
 
 
  It takes little imagination to see various structures designed by the Master Planner. This one takes on the appearance of an ancient castle with many turrets.  
 
 
  This one reminds me of a Shakespearean Theater with various shades of backdrops.  
 
 
  Then there are the ones that appear to have been stacked as child would stack his alphabet blocks.  
 
 
  Then you look out over what appears to be a giant's golf course with a ball already teed up, ready for the swing.  
 
 
 

I tell Dave -

"That formation could pass for one of those Bavarian Castles we saw in the Alps."

  
 
 
  Bryce Point affords more beautiful views of the canyon and is a very popular spot with the bus tours.  
 
 
  And the hoodoos seem to go on and on for as far as the eye can see.  
 
 
  On the way back out of Bryce, there is a 'sister' canyon that is appropriately named.  
 
 
  Just north of the Bryce Canyon gate, but still part of the Park, it allows you to view the hoodoos at almost eye level.  
 
 
  And the views do remind you of a fairyland carved in stone.  
 
 
  Soon we leave the beauty of the canyons behind and make our way down to Tropic, Utah where we will be spending the evening.  
 
 
  The Stepping Stone Motel is located right on highway 12 and has a wonderful concrete driveway with lots of parking.  
 
 
  The rooms are nicely appointed and comfortable. Now the only thing left to sort out is where we shall eat. We see a couple of places down the road and the nearest one appears to be a pizza and burger place. Further down is Clarkes Restaurant which looks like it may have a few more options.  
 
 
 

It's a bit of walk to Clarkes, but that's not a bad thing. The weather is pleasant and the company is excellent. Our server is not from around here, so I ask her -

"I can't quite place the accent. Where are you originally from?"

"I am from Bulgaria over here on a work scholarship".

As it turns out, Dave's lady friend happens to be from Bulgaria, so they engage in a discussion of various places and such that Andy and I have no clue about. I don't know if it made any difference, but we sure get good service for the whole time we are there. Since I am celebrating my third 48 states, I order a ribeye steak, my poison of choice. And I am not disappointed when it arrives in front of me.

  
 
 
  And since this is a celebration, what celebration would be complete without enough sugar to stop your heart? And yes, it is as good as it looks!  
 
 
  When we get back to our rooms, Dave and I decide to replace the headlights in Frost, since I am down to one bright bulb. Changing the bulbs in an ST1100 can sometimes be a real challenge and this time it is beyond us. There are little wire retaining clips that have to be unlatched, but they refuse to yield to either Dave or me. After an hour of frustration, we decide to bag it for another day. Once again it has been a wonderful day with two of the best riding friends a man could share the road with. Tomorrow will be a long day into to Moab to see the Arches and the North Canyonlands, so we've got to be on the road by 6 AM. This knowledge, coupled with a sudden slide off the sugar high from the desert puts my lights out quickly.