Alps 2008
 
 

Day 09

June 27

 
 

Unfortunately for us, breakfast does not start until 9 AM at the hotel. As usual, I'm like a coiled spring ready to rock way early than that in anticipation of today's challenge. I have to content myself by walking around near the lake, watching the mist rise from the water as the sun peeps its bright face over the mountain tops.

 
 
 
  A house on a distant hill shows no sign of life, so I guess it is local custom to 'sleep in' later than I do. But then that would probably be true of most anywhere I go since I like to get up and at it as early as possible.  
 
 
 

The breakfast that Dave and I wait for is a pretty skimpy affair - 3 rolls or so for us to fight over, some jam and juice. Dave tells me -

"I believe we will have an 'early' lunch today."

"Yep, I think you are right on target" I tell him.

So we are out on the road, the place we really want to be anyway, to sample as many Dolomite passes as we can squeeze in today.

 
 
 
  The first pass we summit is called 'Tre Croci' which is a relatively low pass by Alpine standards. It is on the road from Cortina to Auronza and tops out at 5,932 feet - a little higher altitude that most of the Blue Ridge Parkway.  
 
 
  Next we ride to the top of the Giau Pass, about 7400 feet at the crest. The road here goes toward Val Fiorentina. I do notice that it must be a big deal in Italy to put a sticker of some sort on the pass sign. This will not be the last time that I see this sort of 'graffiti'.
 
 
 
  But the ride down affords more views of the rugged Dolomite mountain range and the green valleys that lay below the soaring peaks.  
 
 
  I'm still amazed that at just about every crest of every pass there is always a little cafe and/or gift shop. I guess for bicyclists over here (and there are plenty of them), it is a welcome respite after riding to the top.  
 
 
  With the road stretched out before us, we feel somewhat saddened that we just have to suffer through another day in this motorcyclist's paradise.  
 
 
  Next comes the Staulanza Pass on highway SP251, close to the same altitude as the Tre Croci Pass .  
 
 
  On our way to the Duran Pass, the solitary church tower stands bravely in harmony with the mountain peaks behind, seeming to rise to a greater height.  
 
 
 

As we leave the village of Dont, I can help but get a picture. As Dave said on one of his early posts -

"The sign said Dont but I did."

And I did too!

 
 
 
  The Duran Pass and highway SP347 runs from Dont to Agordo in the Cordevole valley and does not get much above 5,000 feet. But it is a real sleeper because there are sections where the grade is easily 15% - steep by anybody's standards!  
 
 
  The surrounding peaks give a foreboding gloom to the surrounding area as they march off toward the horizon.  
 
 
  And not only can these pass roads be steep, they can be very narrow. For I minute I think Dave has transported us back to some of those single track roads in Scotland.  
 

 
 

As we descend into the little town of Agordo, Italy Dave comments on the artistic statues. I tell him

"I think it must be a library. Seems as if Libro is from the Latin root for library or books if I remember correctly".

The statues are quite captivating at any rate.

 
 
 
  Soon we ascend back up to Pass Cereda, another pass in our long, but happy to-do list. It is another lower altitude pass but still fascinating to ride. I find that the altitude has little to do with the challenge of the ride, but rather just the length of the run. This pass also has incredibly steep grades of 15%.  
 
 
  Dave and I decide the lovely restaurant at the top will do nicely to supplement our rather scanty breakfast. I recognize 'spaghetti bolognese' (noodles with meat sauce) on the menu, so I figure it will fill the empty spot in my stomach right nicely. It's a healthy portion and the sauce is excellent.  
 
 
  And as we eat, a local pooch senses that I am an 'experienced' dog petter and decides to take advantage of my expertise. He's a good natured little feller of mixed extraction, and is more than willing to pose without an agent fee so that I can capture him in all of his glory.  
 
 
  As we finish up our excellent lunch, I can't help but notice a serene little chapel across the road, with well-worn footpaths leading to it. It's good sign that many folks have found some solace for their weary souls there.  
 
 
  At this pass, as with many others, the mountains have their own 'steeples' that press upward into the brooding clouds.  
 
 
  There are a dozen more passes on our 'hit list' for today, so we seem to hit them in rapid succession. The next is Pass Rolle which at one time was actually considered part of Austria. The road through the pass was started in the 1800's.  
 
 
  Next comes Pass Valles, at a height of 6,600+ feet. It is on the road from Paneveggio to Falcade.  
 
 
  And the view from the top shows a horizon of mountains that just seem to march on forever.  
 
 
  At the Pass San Pellegrino, there is a lovely old church building surrounding by alpine meadows. It too is in the 'above 6,000 feet' group.  
 
 
 
Pass Lavaze is a lower altitude pass, actually more like a 'saddle' between two mountains. At the top are lots of fir trees and greenery. It appears to be a very popular ski area judging by the number of motels and such located at the top.
 
 
 
  The Pala di Santa mountain at over 8,000 feet dominates the view in the area.  
 
 
  But I can't but help to be drawn the obvious next engineering version of the 'green' ST, perched on top of a rock. With the ergonomically lengthened handlebars and the construction from recycled materials, it will surely be a smashing success in all markets!  
 
 
  On the way to Pass Costalunga, I get a real chuckle. There's about 6 hot-dogs on stripped sports bikes trailing me as I motor up the road. I can just sense the testosterone flowing from their racing leathers as I wave them on by me. So I let them get a little ahead for grins, then drop Snow White in a lower cog and crank the wick a little bit. Before long I'm on them like a stink on a dead possum. Then funny enough, we all catch up to a dump trunk waddling up the hill. The turns are tight enough that there is no place to pass. After a little bit, they throw up their hands and pull into the first cafe that they come to. I just keep on and about 100 yards up the road the truck turns off to the left, leaving me with clear road ahead. I get to the top and get my picture undisturbed, thinking about how often folks give up just when the end is around the corner.  
 
 
  The next pass we summit is Pass Fedaia , another member of the 'plus 6,000 foot' club. The 'open' tunnel is kind of a unique approach that you do not see of lot of. The light plays strange games when you are navigating them.  
 
 
  It also has a large reservoir at the top to collect the snow runoff.  
 
 
  It has a undulating path to follow on the way down, and Dave and I enjoy negotiating the incredible hairpins that run beneath the ski lift runs.  
 
 
 

As we make our way down the mountain, I get behind a white maintenance van. As I continue to follow him around the fence straddling the center line (with Dave in pursuit), he suddenly stops and gets out. Seems as if I have gotten us both into a fine pickle, as this actually a construction zone that has no warning signs. The grade is too steep for us to 'back walk' the STs so I tell Dave -

"I reckon I'll park mine so I can push you back. So much for my leadership abilities."

About the time I get ready to dismount, one of the workers figures out what's going on. He comes back to us and moves the fence so we can both escape on down the mountain. I can tell by the look on his face that this is not the first time he's had to do it!

 
 
 
  As we make our way on down, I stop for another valley view. I can never seem to get enough of seeing the peaceful little villages tucked away between the imposing mountains.  
 
 
  The road to Pass Falzarego (translated to mean 'false king', has some really interesting roadwork leading up to it. Once again, we encounter hairpins that are inside tunnels which make riding life really interesting!  
 
 
  And the roads through the tunnels are not exactly wide open two lanes by anyone's estimation.  
 
 
  I bag the sign and we move out to complete the rest of the passes, with a dozen of the seventeen under our tires.  
 
 
  But the weather decides not to cooperate with our grand plan. The clouds move in quickly as we make our way down the mountain side. It starts raining so hard, that I find the first driveway I come to so I can put on my rainsuit. It seems the road just turns into a river as we gingerly find our way down. We both decide that we might as well head for the house because it does not appear to be letting up anytime soon.  
 
 
  I figure who can complain? We got to do a dozen new passes and one twice, even though we didn't make the full seventeen. We are both still upright and just had one incredible day of riding, so life just don't get much better. Soon we are back at the Hotel Sorapiss hanging what ever got wet out to dry. Since it's still coming down a little bit, we decide to eat 'inside' at our favorite grazing hole by the lake. Since we failed so miserably at our goal, I determine that I will console myself by ordering that calazone that I saw somebody else get the night before at our 'favorite' restaurant. It's a plate full, but I figure I'm the man for the job and in the end I am victor.  
 
 
  With the vittles dispatched and the rain stopping, we gather up our stuff and make our way back the the hotel. With the rain lifting, the lake becomes a giant mirror, creating an almost surreal photo op.  
 
 
  Dave gets some more good shots before we both bag it for the evening.  
 
 
  It's been one incredible day of riding with my friend in one of the most beautiful places that I have ever seen. As I drift off to sleep, I contemplate what tomorrow holds, but it sure will be tough to beat today's riding. Little do I know what startling revelation lies in store for the both of us.  
 

Totals For The Day -

Countries - 1 (Italy)

Miles - 240

Passes - 12 (Tre Coci (twice), Giau, Staulanza, Duran, Cereda, Rolle, Valles, S. Pellegrino, Lavaze, Costalunga, Fedaia, Falzarego)

Hairpins - 210