Alps 2008
  
 

Day 12

June 30

  
 

I wake up, stretch a little, then I go into shock as I look over at my alarm clock. It says that it is 8 AM and I'm supposed to meet the crew at 9 AM. It is just not like me to sleep that late so I throw it in high gear, shower and shave quickly and rush downstairs - only to find that the restaurant is firmly shut up. Now I am really confused since they should already be open by this time. I look over to the campground and no one is stirring, not even a mouse - although there are some loud noises coming from one green tent in particular.

 
 
 
  And up on the hillside, the cows are playing their cowbell symphony as they contentedly munch their morning grass.  
 
 
  Obviously I am either in a different time zone than Italy - perhaps the Twilight Zone - or my clock is more confused than I am. Since I can't seem to find a clock anywhere, I wander outside for a walk up the deserted village streets.  
 
 
  It's amazing that there is no one out but me, but then that's not all bad. It's a nice cool morning and a pleasant day for a walk, so I enjoy the peace and solitude. I spent the first formative years of my life out in the country roaming the hills and hollers pretty much by myself, so I don't mind my own company.  
 
 
 

By the time I get back, the restaurant has opened up and it has quite a spread. There are cold cuts, soft boiled eggs, various breads, fresh yogurt, a wide selection of cereals and cheeses. The lady that is tending to the place asks me -

"Coffee or Tea?"

and I ask for hot tea. After I fetch what I want this morning, I get back to my table and she has brought me coffee. I guess it's kind of unusual for an American not to be drinking coffee and she got confused. She is a bit embarrassed about it, but I tell her with a big smile -

"Too early in the morning. I understand."

I get one of those nifty little egg stands for my soft boiled egg, drop my chosen egg in the boiling water to warm it up a bit then commence to light in on it like I saw Allan in Lermoos do. I figure I'm starting to get continental and all of that stuff now. To my surprise, the egg is not soft boiled at all like the other places, but fresh! The water is for boiling them to your liking so now I sit here with a raw, warm egg in front of me and no place to hide. Oh well, that fresh yogurt looked pretty good after all, so I concoct me a bowl of fresh fruit, fresh yogurt and some granola to go with my meats and cheeses. I decide that I'll leave the eggs alone for the rest of my stay here since I don't have a clue how long I should boil them. After I demolish what is before me, I wander back outside to the campsite, where Peter, Bob and Fi are preparing their breakfast. As we sit around talking about the day, Bob mentions his video setup on his bike. It has to be on of the slickest ones I have ever seen. He has a camera mounting forward and

  
 
 
 

a camera mounted backward and can switch back and forth from his control on the handlebars. He has done all of the wiring and mounts by himself and it is well thought out. He tells me -

"I'll get some video of you riding the Alps today and send a dvd to you later."

"Oh, so you can show the whole world how slow I go in the passes" I tell him with a grin.

  
 
 
  Before long, I hear a bugle and look around in the direction of the sound. It seems that pretty much every morning the ceremonial 'mail' coach comes into town, just like it used to do in the old days. The team of horses pulling the coach are hitched up in a configuration that I have never seen before. I guess it has to do with the steep grade of the passes that they have to traverse up and down.  
 
 
  Bob and Peter put in one of the routes that Dave originally set up in their GPS systems. I just hate that he is not here to lead us but sometimes that's just the way things go. Once they get it all sorted out, we're off and in the running.  
 
 
  Somewhere on the route we will pass the William Tell statue but we come across this poor facsimile first as we head for Pass Klausen. Looks like the statute maker was having a bad day when he did this one up! I guess beauty must be in the eye of the beholder but I just don't see when I look at this one.  
 
 
  Right off the bat, my Autocom radio starts acting ugly, transmitting static and stuff. I finally give up and just switch the thing off rather than take the time to sort it out right now. Besides, the views on the ascent are once again just like out of a picture book with a little peaceful village nestled in the valley below.  
 
 
  Even though it is summer, there is still plenty of snow in the shadows of the mountains, peaking at well over 6,400 feet.  
 
 
  This will be day of many photos, so Bob grabs a shot of the scenery while we are stopped.  
 
 
  Moving on up the mountain, we pass through a tunnel and I manage to get Bob as he is vaporized by the sunlight - or at least it looks like it.  
 
 
  The force and majesty of this Alpine waterfall is amazing to me. At first glance, it seems to be just coming straight out of the rocky mountain side.  
 
 
 

I later learn that this pass was the finish line of a famous Hill Climb run from 1922 to 1934 when it was 13+ miles of gravel and steep grades. Both motorcycles and cars participated, turning in some pretty amazing times.

 
 
 
  At the top of Pass Klausen, we stop for a break and some rehydration. It is starting to warm up a bit, so I just hang my jacket over the windshield.  
 
 
  The combination restaurant/hotel has a really nice patio area where we enjoy our cokes and tea. I pick up some refrigerator magnets for my elderly friend back in Tennessee at the small gift shop.  
 
 
  I run on up ahead of the group so I can snag the pass sign and not hold them up. Looking at the snow still laying there, I can only imagine how much this pass gets in the dead of the winter.  
 
 
  Going down the Pass Klausen looks to be as good as it was coming up. With this many twists and turns, it will be another delightful challenge to see if Snow White really does have a hinge in the middle!  
 
 
  As we near the bottom, we get a bit of a surprise - some of the hairpins are cobblestone instead of smooth asphalt. This takes a little different touch on the handlebars to negotiate safely.  
 
 
  As we make our way up to the Pragel Pass, I get another shot of Bob emerging from a tunnel. This one does not seem to have the vaporizing machine like the other one did as he exits apparently unscathed.  
 
 
  As we head up toward Pass Pragel, I notice what appears to be a military police wagon behind us. He is following us at a little distance so I do my best to try to behave. I don't know if they are 'fishing' or what so I keep my eye on my rear view mirror for any quick forward motion from them. Finally the vehicle disappears and I feel free to crank up the wick and move on. About half way up, this lovely lake captures my eye. It is the green hue of many of the Alpine lakes - not a 'dirty' green, but a pristine green.  
 
 
  The road up is very narrow, and for all intents and purposes, I would call it a 'single track'. And it is also a free range area, where you might just meet a bovine traffic specialist around the next bend - or at least some of that green traffic control substance that they often leave behind.  
 
 
  Pass Pragel runs pretty much parallel to the Pass Klausen, but it is the less traveled of the two. The pass sign is so small that I almost whizz by it before I see it.  
 
 
  The view from the top reminds me so much of the rolling Alpine meadows that you often see in the tourist brochures of Switzerland, with the small cottages in the background. The cows are noticeably missing - perhaps out doing traffic management.  
 

 
  I soon find that the Swiss passes burn up just as much gas as the Austrian and Italian passes, so we stop for refueling at station near Altdorf, Switzerland. I can't help but notice the simplicity of the Mercedes-Benz dealership next door compared to the high brow affairs of such dealerships in the US.  
 
 
  As we pass through Altdorf, we get to see the 'real' William Tell statue, which is a fine piece of craftsmanship. He is the symbol of rebellion against tyranny and said to be one of the primary factors in the formation of the Swiss Confederation.  
 
 
  On our way out of town, I notice the different 'green' of this river. The only thing I can figure is that it comes from the glacial and snow silt that comes down the steep mountain sides.  
 
 
 

We take a short break at the next pull off so Bob and Peter can do a bit of GPS calculating. After a little while, Bob looks at me and says -

"I believe we still have time to do the other three passes."

To me, that's like saying "sic'em to a bulldog", as there is nothing I'd rather do right now than go run some more passes. I tell him -

"Hot dog, I'll just follow you captain!"

They get the waypoints sorted out and we're off again.

  
 
 
  The next pass we come to, the Pass Susten which quickly becomes my favorite pass of all the ones that I will do on this trip. On the way up are a long series of sweepers that you can really crank on, as you are able to see the 'lay' of the road a good ways into the distance. There are only 2 hairpins that I can actually count as true hairpins.  
 
 
  Though this is the last day of June, there still is plenty of snow around at 7,200+ feet. I'm just glad that it's piled up on the side of the road instead of on the road!  
 
 
  From my vantage point, it seems that the road just runs off the edge of the world from here right into the clouds.  
 
 
  Before we move on down the road in search of needed sustenance, I get one more shot of the Snow Bird with the snow covered Alps as backdrop.  
 
 
  Not too far over the pass, we come to an establishment that will work nicely for feeding the internal beast. It is sort of a 'serve your self' at premium prices, but the dining area is really nice. Probably one of the most expensive tuna fish sandwiches I have ever bought, but it just comes with the territory. And besides, what more lovely company could you ask for than Fi, Peter, and Bob - (well, Miss Fi anyway)?  
 
 
  Soon we are back on the road again, headed to explore yet another pathway through the clouds as we enter another Swiss canton.  
 
 
  As I look down the valley where we are headed, once again it is hard to try to determine where the road goes, where the cows go, and where the snow flows. But I guess it doesn't really matter, cause it's got fun written all over it!  
 
 
  It is views like this that make Susten my favorite pass. It seems as if every mile is just another unbelievable feast for my eyes.  
 
 
  And the road surface is excellent - even through the tunnels.  
 
 
  As we continue our way down, the scenery is replete with magnificent waterfalls and snow covered peaks - and more tunnels!  
 
 
  Soon we are making our way to the Pass Grimsel. Pictures just cannot do views like this justice - they are only a poor rendition of the magnificent original.  
 
 
  Although it is slightly lower in altitude than the Susten, the road going up is much more 'technical' with lots of tight curves and hairpins.  
 
 
  This solitary fir tree stands a quiet lookout, surveying the deep valley that lays before it. I'm sure that if it could speak, it could tell of many long, cold, fierce storms that have assaulted this mountain top.  
 
 
  And with any mountain roads, it seems that there are necessary construction. Once again, we patiently wait our turn to go then make great haste.  
 
 
  Near the top of the Pass Grimsel, there is a massive dam to hold back the runoff from the Rhone Glacier. Bob later tells me that the workers who built the dam thought it too plain, so they painted the impressive mural on the face of it.  
 
 
  Past the dam, the road clings narrowly to the cliff side and follows the natural geography of the mountains in some lovely sweepers.  
 
 
  Looking back toward the dam, it seems as if the road is twisted together like a giant asphalt pretzel. And yet somehow you can make your way up the mountain and never meet yourself!  
 
 
  From a little higher up, you can get a little better perspective of the elevation that you are quickly traversing and just how narrow are the mountain valleys.  
 
 
  Finally we reach the top and I get yet another pass picture as Peter and Bob patiently oblige my sign 'collecting'.  
 
 
  From the summit, the mountains seem to march on out in to the sea of clouds like a mighty army ready for battle.  
 
 
  Then comes the ride down the other side. It is difficult to comprehend that all of the pavement before us is all one contiguous road - and we will travel it on the way down and out.  
 
 
  As I head down to the challenge, it seems that this biker and his gal wants to race Snow White and me down the pass. But I don't think they are headed in quite the right direction.  
 
 
  Looking back across the way that we have come, the descending route takes on the appearance of multiple Zs drawn by a gigantic hand on the mountain side.  
 
 
  Soon we are headed for the last pass of the day - Pass Furka. In 1982 they opened a base tunnel that allows you to go under the mountain instead of over the pass. Today I sure am glad that they did not close the pass!  
 
 
  This pass almost reaches the 8,000 feet mark and we all enjoy the view. But we can see and feel a storm brewing, as the wind really picks up.  
 
 
  Since it is pretty much a straight shot back to Andermatt, we all pick our way back down at our own pace. I get my pass sign then get back on the move.  
 
 
  As I look out, I notice that there is not much between me, the edge of the cliff, and the long way down to the bottom. It doesn't take much mental calculation to figure out that those really small concrete pylons are spaced far enough apart that you could go right in between very cleanly! At least they have a nice decorative effect as you go by.  
 
 
  And on the curves it's not any different. This would not be a curve that I would want to take so fast that I missed it. I have a hunch that would be one mistake that I would not get an opportunity to repeat.  
 
 
  This waterfall looks so refreshing that I am tempted to stop and get a drink, or at least dangle my feet in.  
 
 
  But when I look back up the mountain, I can see the storm clouds gathering strength and coming my way.  
 
 
  It's not too far down to the valley floor and Andermatt, so I continue to press on. But I stay mindful of the nice open spaces between the concrete pylons cause it is still a long way down even from here.  
 
 
 
Just I come into the village of Hospental, I see the old tower which is a remnant of a 13th century castle.
  
 
 
  And then we arrive back at Andermatt, well ahead of the storm. Of all the days that I will spend chasing passes, I believe that I have found my favorite loop today - the Susten/Grimsel/Furka passes.  
 
 
  After we clean up a bit and wash off the road stink, we decide that we will dine at the restaurant located in my hotel. Since the menu is rather pricey to say the least (which makes me glad that breakfast is included with the room), I go for the veggies and bratwurst. It is absolutely excellent, but then it should be unless we are paying rent for the seats. Peter, Fi, Bob and I talk about many things, including Dave's progress. He has text messaged Peter during the day and things are looking a bit better. His ST1100 has been carried to a Honda Shop a hundred miles south of Misurina and may be fixed by late tomorrow. If it all works out, then Dave will try to catch up with me before I leave Andermatt on Wednesday. With this good news of being rejoined by my friend, I decide to celebrate with just a little dessert. It is called "the Danish" on the menu, but I just call it delicious, then call it gone!  
 
 
  Tomorrow we will be venturing back into Italy and running some more passes. As I contemplate the ride, a theory that I have about food and sleep plays itself out. I have surmised after much deep contemplation that there is only so much skin on your body, so when it expands in one area it has to stretch in another. That being true, then when you eat a big meal, the skin over your stomach expands. The extra skin has to come from somewhere, so since the eyelids are flexible, this expansion just pulls your eyelids closed. That's how you properly explain why you tend to fall asleep after a big meal. Now if I can just get a million dollar government grant to do more study on my theory ...  
 

Totals For The Day -

Countries - 1 (Switzerland)

Miles - 185

Passes - 5 (Klausen, Pragel, Susten, Grimsel, Furka)

Hairpins - 94